–>
document.getElementById(‘fontpopup’).onmouseout = sfgate_chfont_mo; 
| South To North | |
|
|
Tres Leches Cake recipes began appearing about 20 years. Several Latin American countries besides Mexico have claimed to invent it, so it seems to be like a child with too many fathers. Part of the legend is that the cake was invented by a condensed milk company to get people to use more canned milk, which Latin American cooks love to do anyway. Through the years I have tried and discarded a half-dozen recipes until I ate the most ethereal Tres Leches Cake at Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen in St. Helena (then known as Miramonte). The chef, Pablo Jacinto, shared his recipe – after I begged a little. The difference in Pablo’s cake – a slightly different version of which appears in “Big Small Plates,” by Cindy Pawlcyn, Pablo Jacinto and Erasto Jacinto (Ten Speed Press, 2006) – is that he uses a very light sponge cake. The crucial step is folding in a meringue. There is no butter in the cake, because butter causes heaviness after soaking. Pablo’s original recipe calls for the cake to be served on a berry sauce, which helps cut the richness of all the soaking milks. While testing this cake, I ran out of regular whipping cream and had to add a half cup crema Mexicana (see Note in the recipe). We liked it even more, so I re-named it Pastel de Cuatro Leches (Four-Milks Cake). I like to make this more of a summer cake by placing individual pieces on the berry sauce and scattering raspberries and blackberries around the edges. This rich cake is perfect to serve following a barbecue of meats, corn on the cob and salad. Serves 10 While testing this cake I ran out of regular whipping cream and had to add a 1/2 cup crema Mexicana (the fourth milk) and we liked it even more. Plan enough time to make this cake; after baking, you will need to let the milk topping soak in for at least 3 hours before icing it. Sponge cake Baking spray 2 1/2 cups all-purpose bleached flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 3/4 teaspoon salt 8 eggs, separated 2 cups extra-fine sugar, such as Baker’s 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon fresh squeezed lime juice 2 teaspoons vanilla 2/3 cup whole milk, room temperature Four-milk topping 1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk 1 can (14 ounces) condensed milk 8 ounces heavy cream 1/2 cup crema Mexicana (see Note), or substitute heavy cream 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla Berry sauce 1 (16 ounces) package frozen blackberries, thawed 1/4 cup sugar Whipped cream icing 8 ounces heavy whipping cream 1 tablespoon powdered sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla Garnish 1 cup fresh raspberries 1 cup fresh blackberries For the cake: Preheat oven to 350°. Mist a 9 x 13-inch baking pan (I use a glass pan) with baking spray. Line bottom with parchment and mist. Sift flour, baking powder and salt together. Set aside. In a large bowl of a standing mixer, or with a hand-held mixer, whip egg whites on medium speed to soft peaks. Slowly add the sugar; raise speed to high and continue whipping to stiff peaks. Reduce speed to low, and beat in yolks one by one. Beat in the lime juice and vanilla. Add the flour mixture alternately with the milk, in two or three additions, ending with the flour. Stop the mixer when all the flour is just in. Use a spatula to quickly and gently finish folding in all the flour until it is just moistened and there are no dry spots. The batter will be thick and slightly lumpy. Pour into the prepared baking dish. Tap on counter to release air bubbles. Bake for 30-35 minutes (exact time will depend on whether your pan is metal or glass), or until cake is golden and center springs back when touched. For the topping: While cake is baking, whisk together evaporated milk, condensed milk, heavy cream, crema Mexicana and vanilla. Cool cake on long baking rack for 10 minutes and then release along the sides with a thin knife (I use an old steak knife). Place rack on top of dish and turn over to release. Allow cake to cool upside down for another 20-30 minutes. Next turn cake right-side up onto a long, serving dish with a rim to catch the excess milk topping. Poke holes in the cake with a steak knife or skewer. Pour 1 cup of the milk topping over entire top of cake. Wait until it soaks in and then repeat. When the topping is absorbed, pour over another cup of topping. You can keep pouring on the milk cup by cup until all of it is used up, or you can save 1/2 cup to serve along with the cake as a side since people seem to like it so much they want to lick their plates. Cover the cake and plate well with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 3 hours, or overnight. For the sauce: Meanwhile, puree thawed blackberries in food processor with the sugar. Pour into a wire strainer and tap edge so puree goes through leaving behind the seeds. Place sauce in covered container until ready to serve the cake. For the icing: An hour before serving cake, whip the cream, powdered sugar and vanilla until soft peaks form. Spread smoothly over the top of the cake. Put cake back in the refrigerator until serving time. Cut cake in 4-inch squares and place each on a pool of berry sauce. Scatter raspberries and blackberries around the edge of plate and serve with any reserved milk topping. Note: Crema Mexicana is close to the French creme fraiche but not as rich. Crema is richer and nuttier than American sour cream and I do not find that they are interchangeable. I prefer the Cacique brand, available in many well-stocked supermarkets or at Latino grocers. Per serving: 490 calories, 10 g protein, 71 g carbohydrate, 19 g fat (11 g saturated), 167 mg cholesterol, 245 mg sodium, 3 g fiber. Jacqueline Higuera McMahan, whose family lived on one of the last Spanish land-grant ranchos in the Bay Area, has lived in Mexico and now resides in Southern California. McMahan is the author of “California Rancho Cooking” (Sasquatch Books, 2003). E-mail her at food@sfchronicle.com .
Pastel de Cuatro Leches (Four-Milks Cake)
This article appeared on page F – 6 of the San Francisco Chronicle
